Frozen in Time

In the lavish tomb of the Marquis Yi of Zeng, who lived during the early Warring States Period (481-221 BCE), archaeologists discovered an ice cooler made of bronze. The storage vessel provides evidence that nobility used ice to keep their food and drink frosty. 　

This invention feels especially relevant today. In May 2025, the national average temperature rose nearly a full degree Celsius above normal, with provinces like Henan and Shaanxi logging their highest average spring temperatures since records began in 1961. More than 280 weather stations reported new heat records, including in Central China’s Hubei Province, location of the state of Zeng. 　

But evidence suggests that Hubei’s climate was even hotter during the Warring States Period. According to findings from prominent Chinese meteorologist Zhu Kezhen (1890-1974), the average temperature of Central China back then was 1-2 C higher. No wonder the Marquis needed a cooler. 

The sides of the square outer container, or jian in Chinese, are adorned with coiled dragon patterns, while the lower part is decorated with hanging leaf patterns. Inside the lid is an inscription: “Owned by Zeng Houyi (Marquis Yi) for personal use.” 　

While the jian contained ice, the inner bronze vessel, called the fou, most often contained wine but was sometimes used for food. When fitted together, the gap between allows for ice to surround the inner fou. 　

This bronze fridge could also double as a sort of hotplate. In winter, the jian was filled with hot water or coals to keep the food inside piping hot. All this makes sense, as Marquis Yi was evidently a real foodie. 　

Among the burial items found in his tomb, archaeologists discovered a large quantity of utensils with traces of food and seasoning. For example, there was a bronze fish-grilling plate with charcoal underneath. It even had the boney remains of a carp. 　

Additionally, there were two large bronze containers filled with fish bones and Sichuan peppercorns, indicating Marquis Yi’s particular fondness for fish dishes. 　

Grilled fish was especially popular during autumn and winter, but a nono in summer according to traditional Chinese medicine, as the dish increases “internal heat.” This apparently did not deter a man of means like the Marquis. After all, he was drinking iced summer wine over 2,000 years ago.　

But he was not the only one. During the late Warring States Period, records tell that nobles in the neighboring State of Chu were also drinking ice-chilled beverages in summer – and it was a status symbol. “Chilled, fragrant frozen drinks are not for the common people,” reads a verse from the ancient poetry anthology Elegies of Chu. 　

Another innovation was a mini cooler known as an “ice pot.” Crushed ice was placed inside a jade pot, which nobles held or placed on the body. By the Tang Dynasty (618-907), ice pots were already common among the upper class. 　

The family of Tang prime minister Yang Guozhong (served from 752-756) would order large ice blocks to be carved out of mountains in midsummer and have them delivered to the palace to be placed around banquet tables. It is recorded that on occasion, guests felt so cold during the feast that they had to wear winter clothes. 　

Yang’s family had the ice blocks carved into exotic creatures, adorned with gold rings and jade belts, and presented them to invited dignitaries in order to win their favor. 　

But this does not compare to Song Dynasty Emperor Xiaozong (1127- 1194) who, sick of the stiffing summer heat, ordered his servants to build an “ice palace.” Doing the best they could, they planted evergreens and bamboo all around the palace and surrounded it with streams of cold spring water. Inside, they covered the palace with large bowls filled with ice. In another strong craving for cool, Song Emperor Huizong (1082-1135) ate so much ice that, according to an ancient medical text, he developed a spleen disorder. 　

Kublai Khan, grandson of Ghengis Khan and founder of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), was undeterred by this possibility, as he was known to have feasted on iced milk treats in summer. Fruit preserves and jams were added, creating a predecessor to ice cream. Similar to Song aristocrats, Kublai Khan wanted icy desserts for the elite only and kept the recipe a secret. He even issued a decree that no one except the royal family could make them. 　

Then there is the icebox. The Palace Museum in Beijing houses a wooden one made during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The exterior is cypress wood, and inside there are drawers. On hot summer days, ice blocks were placed under the drawers, while food was placed on the shelves above. The interior is insulated with sheets of lead, something that would have never passed safety checks today. 

Starting in the Western Zhou Dynasty (1046-771 BCE), the process developed into a complete chain of harvesting, quarrying, storage and trading. The dynasty even had a special department to manage “ice affairs.” Its director was often personally connected to the Zhou emperor. 　

Not only was quarrying and storing ice physically demanding, but it required certain technical skills. First, they had to choose a good source of ice, as not all rivers or lakes would meet the department’s standards. It had to be collected from “deep in the mountains or remote valleys” and from “clean and pure locations,” according to historical tome Zuo’s Commentary on The Spring and Autumn Annals (late 4th century BCE). 　

As the ice needed to be thoroughly solid, quarrying was only possible during the 12th month according to the lunar calendar (around late January-early February) – the coldest time of winter. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the eighth day of this month was considered ideal. 　

After cutting, the ice had to be uniform in size to allow tight packing and stacking. This practice increased storage capacity and minimized air gaps, helping to delay melting. Three times the amount of ice had to be stored, as two-thirds would be lost to melting. 　

The ice blocks were stored in cellars, some of which were very deep and well-like. From the Western Zhou Dynasty onward, each dynasty built ice cellars, usually under official management and sometimes as imperial monopolies. 　

During the Ming Dynasty, Beijing had at least three ice cellars. By the Qing Dynasty, the number had grown to 21, capable storing 215,700 ice blocks at once. 　

With such large reserves, the imperial monopoly occasionally loosened. During the Tang and Song dynasties, wealthy families began setting up private ice cellars, and surplus government ice was sometimes sold on the open market, giving even commoners a rare chance to enjoy chilled beverages. 　

By the late Qing, imperial authority had weakened, and private businesses began harvesting and storing ice. After the Qing’s fall, individuals were officially allowed to gather ice and build cellars. In Beijing, a bureau issued ice business licenses and collected rent for river access in winter. 　

At last, anyone could knock back a cold one on a hot summer’s day.